Saturday, May 30, 2009

Dubai: The Upscale Middle East

Just like the sushi chefs are all Mexican in Phoenix, AZ, the Bedouin dinner "experience" on a desert safari I went on was Pakistani. In fact the "camp" was owned by a Pakistani. The belly dancer was a Russian blonde. I wanted to experience the dune bashing. It was quite a thrill - 25 Toyota Land Cruises all driving at its tip on the side of a dune. Quite a site. Dubai malls are all upscale. There is no such thing as "cheap". Everything is pricey (relative to a backapacker's budget) and the targeted clientele is the affluent upscale traveler. The beaches are nice. There is a fee to enter the beach park at Jumeira. Dense is the ocean water (tho not as dense as the Dead Sea) I was able to stand and float at depths beyond my short frame and still see the bottom of my toes through the water. The water is turquoise and green. Photography is strictly prohibited as in a Islam nation pictures of half naked women are not allowed. Too bad as I badly wanted a pic or 2. All the architectural and pseudo aspects of middle eastern (Moroccan, Turkish, Syrian, etc.) are found here but modernised. Dubai is a clean city and I have yet to meet a native Emirati. This is India's backyard, as my cousin pointed out. 2.75 out of every 3 persons I meet is either Indian or Pakistani. They run the businesses, the abras (ferries across Dubai creek), the taxis, the buses, the shops, the internet cafes, the souqs. Yeah, the souqs are not the real deal. Firstly prices are overinflated compared to places like Morocco and Syria - and , you get the same things. Forget eating out. I grabbed a quick bite at the food court at Dubai Mall and the cheapest entree I got was around usd15 - this was for for 4 small falafels and a soda. Dubai Mall is home to the walk thorugh aquarium. For a land of desert, this city has more dolphins than any other in the middle east. There are dolphins at the Atlantis on the Palm, and a dolphinarium somewhere in the city. You can also go skiing in real snow at Ski Dubai at the Mall of the Emirates. I didn't feel like paying usd20 to go in and take photos. Yeah, for usd20 I could get a "snow pass" to go play in the snow! I stepped in at the Burjuman centre for a frappe and it usd6. Definitely not a backpacker's pass through (like Singapore in SE Asia and Costa Rica in Central America.) My visit to the UAE was to catch up a cousin who was working here and was very generous in paying for our meals when we dined out. Pricey, I thought but was able to catch up with Asian cuisine which was greatly missed since I set out on my travesls since Jan 1. The world's only 7 Star hotel - the Burj Al Arab does not permit visitors unless you have a reservation or are a staying guest. You get great views from their Skybar of the Palm islands. At my cousin's suggestion he suggested I make a reservation for high tea at the Burj and if available he would foot the bill - around usd130 pp for high tea. Ok so I did but we backed out since it was slotted at 1330h, a tad too early for high tea. Besides who in their right mind would pay that? Not me for sure. Had we gone for high tea I would have had nothing nice to wear. Worse case scenario, as my cousin pointed out, I could pick up an abbaya and burka and keep my shorts underneath and probably be able to get in "well dressed" anyway LOL. After all only my feet, hands and face would be seen. Dubai's visionary ruler the Sultan Rashid bin al Maktoum (I think I got that right) is definitely a visionary. The latest and greatest of city, highway, public infrastructure is found here. I didn't get a chance to visit Abu Dhabi to compare but that is run by another sultanate. You must have heard of Dubai Wonderland (I think it is called) when completed in 2020 will be the largest amusement park in the world, twice the size of Disneyland in California. Also the Palm Islands by the Nakheel development company and the World, and Universe (under construction). The World is a set of reclaimed land islands going for USD10-100+ mill an island to own and only reachable by helicopter. The water front homes on the Palm all have ocean front at their doorstep. Nothing is spared. The best of the best is here. The Atlantis at the top end of the Palm is also another impressive hotel with Islamic architecture. This is more grand than its sister in the Bahamas. There is a monorail being built set to start operation on Sept 2009. High above the main road which runs the main axis of the Palms. The bus stops are all air condiitoned. Yup. A/C. Little hut like things. If you happend to be walking around in 49C and 50% humidity like i have been this past week, you could step in, sit and cool off when you get too hot. Who says you have to catch a bus? Especially when the clothes you have on are drenched like you just stepped under a shower in your street clothes. A/C is a MUST. The only cheap amusement I find here is catching the abra between the Bur Dubai and Deira across the Dubai creek. Abras are water boats which ferry people across the creek. You can also drive across by bridge or tunnel, but for pedestrians, abras is the way. I basically hang out at my hotel and eat the groceries I have stashed in the fridge. After getting sick for 2 days eating cheap street Indian food. Even street food was not cheap. In summary, a visit to Dubai just to see the architecture, and extreme extravagance and luxury out there is worth a visit in itself. I hear the humididy reaches 100% in peak summer with temps above 50C. OMG, it was 49C yesterday with a 49% humidity and I could barely stand it. The best part is that Dubai is a safe city. No worry about pick pockets. Everyone pays you attention without expecting a tip. Very nice. After all, money talks. right?

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