Saturday, January 31, 2009

Buenos Aires: Love It or Hate It


I have come across some people who have said they do not like BA. Well, I ain't one of them. I could live here forever. The thing that kills me is how good the public transportation is. If the Subte (metro) isn't running, then there's taxis. There's always the bus. The public network is SO well connected, including the connecting commuter trains to surrounding towns, that you NEVER need a car. And its CHEAP. Today I visited the town of Tigre on the Parana Delta. The commuter train took 45 minutes. To get to the Retiro Train Station, I took the Subte D (green Line) to Retiro with one interchange. Painless, EFFICIENT and unbelievably EASY. You didn't have to know Spanish. The signs are well marked. The Portenos (Buenos Aires people "People of the port") go to Tigre, on weekends. The area is like the waterways of South Florida with houses along the waterways. I can see how people who come to BA end up staying months. Some never leave. I met an Aussie who was here for 2 weeks ended up staying here 6 months. On the other hand I met a Norwegian lady who totally disliked BA. As for me, I absolutely love it. It's relatively inexpensive compared to a big city. Yesterday I took a tango class. And it was FUN. The class was held at the famous Confiteria Ideal (theater). Then I walked Calle Florida in the San Telmo area of BA where it is 10 blocks of wall to wall shops. The San Telmo has a concentration of Tango shows. I went to one Cafe Tortoni to book myself into a night show in 2 weeks. It's one of THE places to go. The cafe is a inexpensive (by US standards) restaurant with all the likes of a Parisian restaurant deco with waiters in black and white. BA may have French architectural influence, but the Spanish is spoken almost sing song like just as Italian. I heard some Italians today and wasn't sure at first if they were speaking Spanish or Italian until I asked. It takes some getting used to from clear Central American Spanish to pronounce words the Argentinian way. I am getting the hang of it each day. The reason is if I do not pronounce my words the local way, because Spanish is already a 2ndary language for me, the accent is not quite there, and the local do not understand what I am saying. Yesterday was an interesting day. Walking Calle Florida there were a few sideshows along the way: people performing to tips. The photo shows one such "show". The fellow is mimicking running against the wind. His clothes are specially "wired" (literally the bends and crooks are as is static) and he stands in that pose until someone drops money in his hat, then he changes position. Since I took the pic, I gave him something for it. Other sideshows included vocals, musicians, and tango dancing, one which charged to have pics taken. Hmmm, maybe I'll go back and get that photo. I am very careful to whip out my camera since BA like any other big city has pick pockets. It is a pain. I put my money and camera in a pack in front of me and hang a larger back over my shoulder to carry my water, umbrella and other stuff. You DO see people look at you when you whip out your camera. It really depends which part of BA you are in. In the more upscale areas I relax a little. As one person put it, "watch for those little fingers. Keep everything in close to your body." Well I am literally. BA is an alternative to Paris. It is less expensive and the people are friendlier than the Parisians. English isn't widely spoken and people WILL continue to speak to you in Spanish even when you speak to them in English. So, it definitely helps to know Spanish. I have one word to describe my time here: I am having a blast!

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