Morocco: Final Thoughts

Morocco. The though of Lawrence of Arabia and the huge Sahara, the famous Djemaa El Fna square in Marrakech, the mysterious witchcraft and evil depicted in those Hollywood movies, and most notably "A Kiss is Just a Kiss" from the movie "Casablanca". It is all in one's imagination until you get here. Yes. It is a beautiful country minus the people, that is. Honest to god. I have not been so much sought after for all the pennies in my pocket until I arrived in this mysterious land. And yes. The many marriage propositions. This isn't such a big deal. You just smile, amuse yourself, laugh at the exchange and move on. The worst are the taxis. Their greed drives them to pounce on gullible tourists who think everything is cheap, even after the taxi charges them more than double (por example, moi). I couldn't get the taxis to turn the meter on in Casablanca. So, really, no way in hell was I going to get one to do it in Marrakech, where they are worse.

The Taxi Experience
Looking for a taxi to the train station or airport? No problem. Just stand out there with your luggage. The taxi stand will come to you. Just the other day on my way to drop off my backpack at the next Riad where I was going to stay after my desert trip, at 6:30am in the morning, I heard some scurrying footsteps behind me. A taxi driver rushed up to me and yelled "aeroport? aeroport?" Now, I was walking down a side alley within a side alley, and believe me, the medina, the alleys lead to more alleys, but the taxi guys, they find you. Now today again. My last chance to get a damn taxi driver to turn the damn meter on. In Marrakech, I left my pack in my room and headed out to look for a taxi. Just as soon as I approached Hotel Tazi (the only hotel in Marrakech which serves alcohol) I get 5 guys standing in my face. "Taxi madame? Aeroport? Gare du Train?" Hmmm. I said to myself. Open bid for taxi fare. So I started out "Combien?" All wanted 50 dirhams. The going rate should not exceed 15 dirham. Since I was very anxious to get to the train station, what was USD2.00 more to me? I really didn't care. So I settled at 30 Dirham knowing full well the taxi was going to bulk at my 2 bags. You know what? The fellow demanded 40 dirham when he saw my big pack 21 kgs in all. Shook his head. I was pretty fed up at this point and agreed. Not only did I get a ride to the Gare du Train, but I also received a marriage proposition. I have received a total of 4 in my 2 weeks in Morocco. Malaysia, to the Moroccans, and they associate me to being a Moslem.

The "Empty Your Coin Purse" Experience
Just about any "artist" in Djemaa El Fna will DEMAND a tip if you TAKE A PHOTO. Expect it. You won't get away with it unless you are far away with a super duper telephoto lens. Instead of randomly taking a photo of any snake charmer, water vendor, monkey man, musician, drummer, or dancer, I strategized which ones I wanted pics of. I walked straight up to them and say "Monsieur, foto?" They then give me the pay gesture with their fingers. I say "apres" after I take the photo. They then stick their grimy hands in front of you for the eagerly awaited payment, as they watch you take your coins out. It is never enough. You give 10 dirham and they ask for more. The trick is to put just the exact amount you intend to pay and then show them the empty coin purse after you take ALL your money out for them. LOL. Yes it happened 3 times. With 2 water vendors, a snake charmer, and the taxi to the train station today. I ended paying only 37 dirham instead of 40 to the taxi but honestly I didn't care. I JUST wanted to get to the train station. YES. They eagerly look in your purse or wallet and have a satisfied grin after they see that you have given them ALL YOU GOT! LOL. Too funny.

The Night "Artists" in Djemaa El Fna and a Single Female in the Square at Night
The musicians generally are pretty good at night. Most times professionals play in the square. So I was told by a local Moroccan. Locals gather around and listen. Tourists are allowed too...until...they TAKE OUT THEIR CAMERA. Last night, I was enjoying my stroll around the square. Made my rounds at my usual 9 spice tea stall and ate some Moroccan sweet delicacy (dunno what it was just tasted good). I stood at a band of musicians singing Berber songs. I saw a tourist seated around them video taping so I thought OK, I will video or take a photo, but pay, of course. BIG MISTAKE. One of the musicians immediately stood in my face and DEMANDED I pay. I gave 1 Euro since that was all I had in coins. Again he demanded more. I emptied my coin purse of the last 1 Euro coin. I had hardly started to video tape and then he stood in front of me again and said I couldn't take a photo. It was going to cost me 3 Euro to take a photo. Pissed off I walked off. By this time a local Moroccan who spoke very good English started talking to me and followed me around. At first I engaged in general conversation. But as the evening wore on, I couldn't brush this man off. After about 20 minutes, I politely told him that I was meeting a friend. Immediately he responded "but what will you do after?" I replied that it was none of this business, bid my good byes and walked in a hasty speed back to my hotel. I had received too many marriage propositions and this fellow was all too creepy. And Djemaa El Fna is pickpocket heaven at night. With my new camera in my pocket I was more anxious to put the camera away before I resumed my evening stroll around the square.

The Djemaa El Fna Vendors
The best and most polite Moroccans I have ever met. The orange juice stall man and the 9 spice tea stall man. I always went back to the same stalls for my beverage refills. The 9 spice tea stall man even gave me extra tea at no cost and let me try some sweet Moroccan cake. The OJ stall man also gave me extra orange juice from time to time. Honestly at 2 dirham (USD0.25) for this amazing tea and 3 dirham (USD0.30) for freshly squeezed OJ, YOU CAN'T BEAT THAT! Who wouldn't in their right mind not drink freshly squeezed OJ when you pay a fortune in the US??

Final Thoughts
Morocco is not for the faint hearted. South America is a child's playground for the independent traveler. Morocco is not. If you are going for a week. It is no big deal. But if you are traveling for an extended period like me, it can wear you out. Even Egypt wasn't as bad. Really. Take my word for it. Even China wasn't that bad. And those of you who know the hard time I had in China know what I am talking about. The easiest is to take an organized group tour to Morocco. Save yourself the frustration and exhaustion of what will be in store for you. If you are a single female traveler, just put up with the proposals. Egypt was the same. This doesn't really bother me. But the CONSTANT haggling when you like to take a break from it all just doesn't leave any room. IT IS EXHAUSTING! When cheap taxis CHEAP?? are the only way to go [or take the bus] refuse to turn the meter on, at times I be yelling at the driver to "Mettez le counter!" and the driver be grinning telling me it isn't working, if this doesn't drive you up the wall, I don't know what else would in such an environment. The characters of the people I met in the souqs are right out of the movies. Really. Funny, entertaining, and genuinely nice. Moroccans are nice people, the nice ones, that is. Not that rude musician in the night in Djemaa El Fna. Go with an open mind. I did. I was very amused. But equally frustrated at the demands of the taxis. I may return.